Louis Michel & Fils

Domaine Louis Michel & Fils has been based in the town of Chablis since 1850. Guillaume Michel, the sixth generation of the family, has run it since 2007. The domaine farms about twenty-five hectares across the whole hierarchy: roughly fifteen in premier cru, six in village Chablis, two in Petit Chablis and two in grand cru, with the vines averaging fifty years of age.

Its defining decision was taken two generations ago. Guillaume's grandfather gave up barrels at the end of the 1960s, and the domaine has been entirely stainless steel ever since, with no oak at any level from Petit Chablis to grand cru. Three grands crus are held: Vaudésir and Les Clos, and about half a hectare of Grenouilles, the smallest of the seven Chablis grands crus. The premiers crus run to Montmains and its sub-climats Butteaux and Forêts, together with Vaillons, Séchets, Fourchaume and Montée de Tonnerre.

The soils are ploughed, once by horse and now by tractor, with systematic de-budding and severe pruning; the estate is certified HVE3, the top level of the French Haute Valeur Environnementale scheme, and keeps hedgerows and bees across the property. Fermentation runs on the grapes' own yeasts and the malolactic goes through of its own accord. The wines show green apple and citrus, a firm line of acidity, and the flinty, saline grip of Kimmeridgian limestone with nothing laid over it. Arcana Cabinet lists the village Chablis, the premiers crus Montmains and Butteaux Vieilles Vignes, and the grands crus Vaudésir and Grenouilles. The range also includes the grand cru Les Clos, Petit Chablis and the other premiers crus.