Laurent Roumier

Domaine Laurent Roumier is in Chambolle-Musigny, and it is not Domaine Georges Roumier. Laurent is a grandson of Georges, who founded that other estate in 1924, and a cousin of Christophe Roumier, who runs it today; his father Alain Roumier was cellar master at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. After years working alongside his brother Hervé, Laurent set up on his own account in 1991 with four hectares held en fermage, and the domaine has since grown to about twelve, in and around Chambolle and the hills above it.

Two grands crus head the holdings. Bonnes-Mares came down from the Georges Roumier holding. Clos de Vougeot lies in the Grand Maupertuis sector at the upper end of the walled clos, and was taken on in 1997. Then comes Chambolle-Musigny premier cru, bottled both as a blend and as Les Charmes, which sits mid-slope in the heart of the village. The village Chambolle-Musigny accounts for most of the estate's output, and Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits is made in both colours, the red from La Poirelotte, up in the hills behind the Côte.

The vines average around thirty-five years and are farmed without fertiliser or herbicide. The fruit is entirely destemmed and fermented in concrete, with daily punching down and pumping over, then aged fifteen to eighteen months in barrel: a tenth new oak on the Hautes-Côtes, about a third at village level and around half for the crus. The wines run to red fruit, rose and spice, with fine tannin and aromatic lift. Arcana Cabinet lists six wines from the domaine: the grands crus Bonnes-Mares and Clos de Vougeot; Chambolle-Musigny premier cru as a blend and as Les Charmes; village Chambolle-Musigny; and Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits La Poirelotte in red. The range also includes a Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits in white.